The term retinoid refers to a class of molecules that include vitamin A (retinol) and both its natural and synthetic derivatives. Navigating the world of retinoids might seem confusing, especially because different countries may follow different legislations. The European Union only allows vitamin A derivatives in cosmetics. Overall, retinoids can be split into two categories: those allowed in cosmetics, and those for which a medical prescription is needed — therapeutic retinoids.
Retinoid's identity card
Retinoids are oil-soluble molecules that diffuse from your skincare into skin cells, where they bind to their specific receptor, initiating a chain of responses that lead to proliferation of new cells. By accelerating the skin's cell production, fresh skin cells can reach the surface, enhancing a radiant complexion. Meanwhile, fine lines and wrinkles will look smoother, and overall skin-tone will appear brighter.
Retinoid's family
Not all retinoids have the same power. Different vitamin A derivatives have different retinoid-like activity — meaning different strength and efficacy. In general, a skincare active's strength is linked to how much of it actually reaches skin cells (penetration). But for retinoids, penetration is only the first step: once inside cells, they must be transformed into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. The more steps required for this transformation, the less powerful the active will be. The retinoid-like activity after skin application increases in the following order: retinyl esters << retinol < retinal < retinoic acid.
Fortunately, efficacy doesn't always equate to better results. Vitamin A and its derivatives are dynamic molecules that can have a strong impact on your skin, but require proper use to avoid potential irritation. The slower the transformation to retinoic acid, the gentler the product will be on your skin.
To ensure consumer safety, especially for sensitive skin, the EU has imposed restrictions on retinoids in cosmetics. The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that vitamin A derivatives are safe to use in skincare up to a concentration of 0.3% retinol equivalent. At this concentration, vitamin A works at a deep cellular level to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, balance sebum production, and improve pigmentation stability.
You can experience these skin-enhancing effects with our Vitamin A Treatment Cream, which contains 0.3% of this ingredient.
Cosmetic retinoids vs prescription retinoids
Prescription retinoids — including tretinoin (retinoic acid), isotretinoin, acitretin, and tazarotene — can be purchased upon medical prescription to treat skin diseases such as acne, psoriasis, and actinic keratosis. As retinoic acid is the active form, it doesn't have to be transformed but can take effect immediately. This also means it contains intense powers that can be harsh for the skin, with potential side effects.
Cosmetic retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that require 'activation' within skin cells. Retinyl palmitate is widely used in skincare because of its stability — it is the ester resulting from the reaction between vitamin A and palmitic acid, which we use in our Vitamin A Treatment Cream.
This powerful cream boosts skin regeneration, speeds up cell renewal, and targets fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes, scarring, and hyperpigmentation. As all retinyl esters go through at least three steps to be converted into retinoic acid, they are gentler on the skin but still effective — you get all the benefits without irritating the skin.