The controversy surrounding mineral oil (often referred to as vaseline) has sparked distinct notions about its use in the skincare industry. A division that hovers above the question: Is mineral oil a safe ingredient? In this blogpost, we're zooming in on this particular query, as we investigate the pros that have given rise to the popularity of this ingredient while diving deep into the cons that made us choose not to include it in our formulas.
The fundamentals of the controversy
Mineral oil is a derivative of petroleum and consists of a complex mix of hydrocarbons (a benzene). This composition allows the substance to form a barrier on the skin and thereby prevent moisture loss. These occlusive properties, along with the fact that the substance is cheap to manufacture due to it being a by-product of the oil industry, play a vital role in the ingredient gaining world-wide traction. The debate about mineral oil typically circles around two main factors: 1) How it can trick you, and 2) its potentially harmful content.
1: How mineral oils can trick you
Though coating your lips or covering a dry patch with a product based on mineral oil can provide immediate relief, the feeling will be short-lived. Due to the large molecular size of the mineral oil, it can't penetrate the skin; and because it won't absorb into the skin (and doesn't contain any nurturing ingredients), the ingredient won't work to actually improve your skin's condition. Rather, you can risk leaving your skin addicted to the brief, symptomatic treatment (also referred to as petroleum addiction), which can end up in an uncomfortable cycle.
2: The potentially harmful content of mineral oil
In recent years, mineral oils have undergone examination due to criticism of their potentially harmful effects. The culprits are particularly MOSH and MOAH — both hydrocarbons found in mineral oils. MOSH is carcinogenic, and MOAH can build up in the body upon ingestion. However, sources claim that the potential harm can vary from substance to substance.
How we come in contact with mineral oils
We're repeatedly and continuously exposed to mineral oils throughout everyday life — even when we probably aren't aware of it. Mineral oils are found in various types of food (rice, pasta, chocolate etc.), as well as in children's toys, packaging, and an abundance of cosmetics and skincare products — including numerous lip care products, baby oils, foundations, sunscreens, hair gels, and moisturizers.
Though mineral oil can't absorb into the skin, it can still gain access to our bodies. The particles release into the surrounding air with our dead skin cells (we shed around 30.000-40.000 skin cells every minute!), causing an inhalation risk. We also consume it directly through our diet, and potentially through our skincare and makeup. Did you know that you consume approximately four lip balms a year with daily use?
How to spot mineral oil in your products
Some products containing mineral oil can still obtain certifications. So if you're generally guided by certifications when selecting your products, consider switching your attention toward the ingredient list instead. In Europe, mineral oils are only allowed in cosmetics if they comply with comprehensive legal regulations and specifications of quality based on the Cosmetics Law.
Sources have also shown that there have been no reports of any effects on health due to the consumption of mineral oils from cosmetic products — even though the products were used daily and for many years. The requirements for the quality and the concentration of mineral oil in currently developed products should ensure that its potential risks shouldn't be a concern.
However, it's ever so important keeping yourself updated on the latest findings on debated ingredients like this one. As mentioned, we're often exposed to mineral oil daily through various factors. Therefore, it's nearly impossible to steer completely clear of. However, if you wish to limit your intake of mineral oils, your lip products could be a good place to begin. The purpose of this article is giving you the opportunity to choose your products based on an enlightened foundation.
Sources: 'Mineralske olier (MOSH og MOAH)' foedevarestyrelsen.dk. 'Mineralske olier – hvad er det?' taenk.dk, Søndergaard, Niels, 2023. 'Sådan spotter du mineralske olier i læbepomade' taenk.dk, Søndergaard, Niels, 2022. 'Highly refined mineral oils in cosmetics: Health risks are not to be expected according to current knowledge', BfR.bund.de, 2018.